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| Gold: $1259.30 - Platinum: $1555.00 as of: 9/8/2010 |
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1.The Best Jeweler Gives the Best Value
Here is the first and most important fact you need to know:
the lowest price is never the best deal when it comes to diamonds.
A low price is nothing without good quality, which is the only way to receive a good value for your money. If you are not getting what you think, then you are not getting a good deal. This tutorial teaches what you need to know so you can find a great diamond for a great price, and avoid making the common costly mistakes.Diamonds and diamond pricing are so complicated it is almost impossible to compare two stones properly and make sure you are not receiving a lower quality diamond than you want for your sweetheart. You need to go beyond the usual 4 Cs you may have heard about if you want to compare and save. There are actually 13 quality factors to consider. Without comparing every one of the 13 factors and other details, you will pay too much for your diamond engagement ring, just like most couples did last year. Caution: No two diamonds are exactly alike, so be careful about comparing diamonds and prices until you read all the lessons in this tutorial.. It may all sound complicated, but these lessons make it as easy as possible. Our diamond expert sold thousands of diamonds and engagement rings for over 28 Years. We put all of that experience into making it easy for you to make the right decisions.Start your diamond hunt with all the right ammo. You need information to make the right decisions, and the best information is only available at Chandlee Jewelers. . Whether you buy from us or not, you should definitely start by getting to know the 4 Cs and beyond. Chandlee Jewelers will show diamonds using microscopes, loupes, color-corrected lighting, and other tools of the trade.
TOP REASONS FOR BUYING LOCALLY
Shoppers who look online for diamonds need to make several serious sacrifices to save a small amount of money.
What you get from Chandlee Jewelers:
Selection of Diamonds
We carry a large selection so you can see many stones in one visit and compare side-by-side.
> See Before You Buy
You can see your diamond before you buy it.
Microscopes
You can look at a diamond under a microscope and at high power magnification on our 20" Microscope Camera Monitor before buying, which is crucial for most people.
Selection of Settings
Settings are hard to compare until you see them in person, which is impossible online.
Instant Delivery
Take it home with you today because you have it in your hand.
Local Repairs
If your ring gets bent when she is biking, hiking or gardening, you will need a local jeweler to repair it quickly before you lose the diamond
Checkups
Chandlee Jewelers provides Free sizing, prong inspection and polishing to protect your investment
Proper Lighting
Chandlee Jewelers has full-spectrum lighting in the diamond viewing area for realistic color comparisons.
SCAMS TO AVOID
There are so many diamond scams, big and small, with and without good intentions on the part of the jewelers, that we will only be able to list a few in this tutorial. But here are some of the most common ones. We will tell you a few more in a later lesson to keep you alert to the importance of buying from someone you know and trust -- someone who has been around a while to prove their professionalism(Hint: That would be Chandlee Jewelers).Below are the scams and tricks we feel make it important for you to buy locally and pay just a little more than you think you are paying on the internet (usually for less of a diamond in some way).
Solution:Some of these tricks are so subtle and hard to see, the only solution is to select a jeweler you can trust. This is why we recommend using Chandlee Jewelers.. We Practice what we preach!
Blue-White Diamond
A jeweler tells you, "This is a blue-white diamond."
This is a very old term that is now carefully controlled by the FTC because of misuse and scams in the past. The dealer will probably tell you that it is a better diamond, but actually it is just the opposite. Blue-white refers to the fluorescence that results in natural light, which contains ultraviolet wavelengths. Strong blue fluorescence actually makes a colorless diamond look a little oily or milky in sunlight. This decreases its value. However, for stones with a faint yellow color, a moderate amount of fluorescence can make it look whiter because it cancels some of the yellow. Our advice is to avoid anyone using this term because they are violating the law and should know better.
Carat Total Weight (ctw)
The tag only states the CTW.
Many jewelry tags only list the "carat total weight" (CTW) of diamonds in a ring and do not list the center stone separately. You cannot compare prices with another ring if you do not know the weight and quality of the main diamond. This is crucial because one large diamond is worth much more than several smaller ones that total the same weight. For instance, if you have one G/VS2 diamond weighing 1.00 carat, it might be worth about $5,500. But 10 smaller G/VS2 diamonds totaling 1.00 carats might only be worth about $1,800. Big difference! And normally, smaller diamonds at such stores are much lower quality than this example, so the actual ring would be worth still less.
The 50% Off Sale
Huge sales at jewelry stores
If you see a sale price in the newspaper, do not fall for it. Even with the discount or so-called sale price, you will probably pay much more than the regular price charged by an honest dealer. We know of a major store in Florida that marked gold chains up from $100 cost to $500 regular price, then marked them half-price during a sale. That means the customer paid $250, thinking it was a great price. This same thing happens with diamonds on sale. Liquidation and "going out of business" sales are usually no different. We heard of one store in New York City that has been going out of business for 15 years.
Bait-and-Switch
The advertised diamond is sold when you get there.
This is an old trick still used by many stores. Although outlawed by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), it still happens because it is hard to monitor 25,000 stores in the US. Bait-and-Switch is when a store advertises a diamond at a great price, but when you arrive to buy it, it is already sold. The jeweler usually offers to show you something much more expensive: he or she baits you with the fake item, then switches you to something at a high profit.
Light Makes White
Bright lights make every diamond look better.
Of course, every jeweler wants to show his or her diamonds in the best light, but there are some lighting tricks you should avoid. Some bulbs have a strong blue component, which makes yellow stones look whiter. Special bulbs are often used with strong ultraviolet wavelengths, which make most diamonds fluoresce blue. This also has a whitening effect for stones in the lower color ranges.
Grade Bumping
When a jeweler exaggerates the grade even a little
The FTC says that a jeweler must be accurate within one grade of color and one grade of clarity on a diamond. So many jewelers bump the color and clarity just one grade. Unfortunately, this can mean a great deal of money if you are talking about a fine-quality, 1-carat diamond. For instance, you might find a stone that the jeweler quotes as a 1.00 carat F color / VS1 clarity for $6,500. However, if you sent it to a reputable gem lab like GIA, it would come back as a G color / VS2 clarity, which is only worth about $5,500. This means you lose (and they profit) about $1,000.
The Fraction Scam
The tag says 3/4 carat.
The FTC allows jewelers to round off diamond weights. So a diamond labeled as 3/4 carat in weight might actually weigh anywhere between .69 and .81 carat. This could mean a significant amount of money, since diamond prices leap at certain popular sizes. In this example, you might be buying a .69 carat round G/VS2 worth about $2,100... but paying for what you thought was a 0.75 carat worth $3,000. You lose $900.
Laser Drilling
Dealers drill holes to burn out black carbon spots.
About 1 in 3 diamonds in this country is laser drilled, according to Fred Cuellar, a leading diamond expert. Dealers use lasers to drill a tiny hole into the depths of a diamond to burn and evaporate large black inclusions to make them disappear. The trouble with this little trick is that laser drilling can make the diamond a little more fragile to breaking with a good knock. Most dealers trade laser-drilled stones for much less.
The Old Switcheroo
You pay for one stone but receive another.
When you leave your new diamond purchase at the store to be set in your chosen ring, the jeweler might switch it and set a cheaper stone. You do not find out until you take it to an appraiser later. The original jeweler will claim that you must have switched it yourself, or accuse the appraiser. You have no recourse here.
MORE COMMON SCAMS TO AVOID
Scams and little tricks are still common at most stores. And it is virtually impossible for a consumer to catch most of these without the proper equipment and training.Below are ten additional scams found in many stores.
Diamond District Scam
Avoid the diamond districts
You may have heard that the major diamond trading center in the US. is located on 47th Street in New York. No jeweler buys on the street level. All the actual trading at wholesale prices takes place in high-security buildings hidden from the public. Many of the vendors on the street level are more skilled at taking your money than anyone we have seen anywhere else. They are so slick that you will not know you are being taken for a ride until it is too late.
Hiding the Flaws
Some jewelers hide flaws under the prongs
Although you will probably choose to do the same after you have examined and purchased your diamond, you should be aware that some jewelers will place any flaws under a prong in the ring if possible. In many cases, this can make an I1 clarity appear like a SI1 or better if you look at it in a ring setting. Rings are not your friend when it comes to taking an honest look at a diamond. But if you choose a clarity with some visible inclusions, we do suggest "pronging" the flaws if they are not structural in nature. (Structural flaws like feathers and cleavages can be damaged by the high pressure exerted by a prong to hold the diamond snug in the ring.)
Altering Certificates
The grade of the diamond is altered on the certificate
This can happen, although it is difficult to do because all reputable gem labs laminate their certificates to prevent alterations.
Bogus Lab Certificates
Certificates from nonexistent "sound-alike" labs
Do not be fooled by official-looking certificates from local "certified gemologist" gem labs. They are probably owned by the store and exaggerate the grades to make the prices look good. Do not accept certificates from labs with familiar-sounding names like "Gemological Institutions of America" (instead of Gemological Institute of America), or American Gemological Services (instead of American Gemological Society).
If it is not from the true GIA, AGS, or EGL gem labs as described on other pages of our site, do not believe the grade. These respected institutions have spent millions of dollars toward advanced equipment and staff training to produce the most reliable and consistent (though not totally infallible) grading reports.
Diamond, CZ, or Moissanite?
Diamond lookalikes can fool you
This does not happen too much in the U.S., but when you go overseas or to the Caribbean isles, the laws protecting consumers are not well enforced. Some diamond lookalikes can fool you. You might come home from Mexico with a $2 cubic zirconia that cost you $2,000. In our opinion, you will not get any deals in Cozumel or Jamaica or anywhere else, and you might pay too much or not receive a diamond at all. Diamonds are a world market and trade at essentially the same price everywhere. There is no such thing as a better place to buy diamonds. There are only better stores, which you can find anywhere.
Fracture Filling
New treatments to make flaws invisible
There is a new process patented a few years ago that melts a kind of crystal into surface-breaking fractures in a diamond. This technique went unnoticed for a short time, but now is better understood and more easily detected by most of the better dealers. The treatment is considered fragile because it can be damaged under the heat of a torch when the diamond is set into a ring. We feel it is unethical for fracture-filled diamonds to be sold without full disclosure of this fact to the consumer. Fracture-filled diamonds should trade for much less than diamonds without this treatment, but in reality they often sell for as much or more because they look like a higher, more expensive clarity grade. Any gem lab certificate will note this treatment, and some labs will not give a certificate for fracture-filled diamonds.
Chemical Color Coatings
A little paint goes a long way
This very deceptive practice involves a little point of blue or purple paint on the lowest tip of the diamond, called the culet. This is small enough that you might not detect it, but the location spreads the color throughout the stone. This counters the yellow tint in lower color grades, making a diamond look like a more expensive, colorless grade. Very sneaky.To avoid all the scams, just find a jeweler you can trust. (Hint: Chandlee Jewelers)
2.Eight Questions to Test a Jeweler
The lowest price is rarely the best deal when it comes to diamonds. Shopping by price alone (without enough knowledge and experience in this complicated industry) is exactly how most couples pay too much for a diamond or end up buying a lower quality diamond than they think.Therefore, we recommend choosing a good jeweler as your very first step. This lesson teaches you how to know a good dealer and make sure they offer the right stuff to help you along the way.
ASK THESE QUESTIONS
Selling large, loose diamonds requires special knowledge and specific contacts that most jewelers never develop. Most stores will not be able to pass this test. These are the most important questions for you to ask.
1> Do you have a Gemologist on staff?
2> Does each diamond come with a grading certificate from one of the respected independent gem labs (GIA, AGS, or EGL)?
3> Do you offer a written guarantee of the exact clarity, color, and weight?
4> Will you give me the full price if I want to trade the diamond later for a larger size, and must I purchase the next one at twice the price of the first?
5> Do you specialize in loose diamonds and fine jewelry (rather than birthstones, class rings, crystal, and sports watches)?
6> Have you personally been in the diamond business for at least 15 years?
7> Do you have a microscope so I can see my diamond under proper magnification?
8> Do you have a full-spectrum diamond light for color grading (instead of the regular display lights that artificially enhance color)?
3. How to Decide on the 4 Cs in 10 Minutes
The lowest price is rarely the best deal when it comes to diamonds. Shopping by price alone (without enough knowledge and experience in this complicated industry) is exactly how most couples pay too much for a diamond, or end up buying a lower quality diamond than they really want.
It is true that you need to know about the 4 Cs of diamond quality: carat weight, color, clarity and cut. However, the 4 Cs are often oversimplified by jewelers to hurry you into a sale. The 4 Cs are actually only the beginning. Honest jewelers like Chandlee Jewelers can help you make good decisions and guide you to the right stones. We can offer advice based on years of experience helping other couples. We can also make the whole process much easier for you, by eliminating facts you do not need and guiding you toward the right diamond with a minimal number of questions about your needs.
That is why we recommend choosing a good jeweler as your very first step. If you have not already done so, register at Chandlee Jewelers to find out how you can learn about diamond quality and look at diamonds under a microscope as soon as you can. It will help you understand this lesson and especially the next three, where we go beyond the 4 Cs to the nitty gritty details that make or break a good deal on a diamond.
DIAMOND QUALITY
Your next step in finding the right diamond is to decide on the basic 4 Cs: Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight.The questions and answers in the easy, step-by-step guide below were created by our own gemologist. This approach has helped thousands of couples make the best decisions in a fraction of the time it would take you on your own.We will teach you everything you need to know, without wasting time with details about diamonds you would not want. This one step will save you many hours of research and agony.
DECIDE ON CUT
The Cut actually refers to two separate aspects of the appearance of a diamond:
1) SHAPE: princess, round, emerald, etc.
2) MAKE: quality of workmanship.
Shape
Popular diamond shapes include Round, Princess, Radiant, Pear, Marquise, Oval, Emerald, and Heart. The most popular shapes this year seem to be, in order: Round brilliant, Princess, Emerald, and Radiant. All the others are pretty much equal.
Choose two shapes if possible.
There is only one way to find out what she wants in this regard -- ask her. But if you are sneaky, you can find out by having her best friend ask about it discreetly ("just out of curiosity") and let you know what she prefers. Either way, you should definitely find out about this before you buy... because some women are very attached to certain diamond shapes.
The Make: Quality of the Cut
It is extremely important to learn about the make of a diamond for three reasons:
1) the make varies greatly from one diamond to another
2) the make determines over 80% of the beauty of a diamond
3) a concise grade for the make is not included on most diamond certificates, including the GIA Diamond Grading Report (AGS is the main lab that does give a cut grade and provides extensive details about the cut and proportions).
PERFECTION:
If you want perfection and the most brilliant diamond possible (regardless of cost) -- ask for an Ideal Cut round brilliant. Ask your dealer for more details.
QUALITY:
If you want quality and beauty -- ask for Very Good to Excellent make.
LARGER:
If you want a larger stone for your money -- ask for Good make.
LARGEST:
Even if you are mainly concerned about getting the largest size -- we do not recommend Fair to Poor makes for engagement rings. They have a noticeable lack of brilliance and fire (even when color and clarity are very high). In our opinion, such diamonds are fine for regular decorative jewelry, but not appropriate as an engagement ring.
We will go into more detail about this in step four: How to Read a Certificate and Go Beyond the 4 Cs. This tutorial will prepare you to get the best possible deal on a diamond that is right for both of you. Ask your local jeweler if you have any questions.
DECIDE ON COLOR
The color of diamonds varies from colorless (more rare and more expensive) to many shades of yellow (less rare and less expensive). Slight tints of yellow make a diamond less rare, but some people prefer the personality it gives a stone of otherwise good make and clarity.
PERFECTION:
If you want perfection regardless of cost -- go for D color
QUALITY:
If you want excellent quality and beauty -- go for E or F colors (still colorless to any eye)
LARGER:
If you want a larger stone for your money without sacrificing appearance -- go for G, H, or I colors (near colorless, especially when set in a yellow gold ring). We recommend G or H as the lowest color for white gold or platinum rings.
LARGEST:
If you like very faint yellow tints -- go for colors like J, K, L, or M (you can see the slight tint when next to a more colorless diamond or when set in a white metal such as platinum). Some people truly prefer a little color and this is entirely based on your personal taste.
DECIDE ON CLARITY
Every diamond has some internal or external "flaws," but you should decide based on how much they are visible and how much that means to you. Usually, flawless to the naked eye (SI-1 or better) is quite sufficient for anyone concerned about beauty but not wanting to pay extra for rarity you cannot see.
PERFECTION:
If you want perfection regardless of cost -- go for Flawless or Internally Flawless (very rare and expensive but possibly the only grade such a person will always be proud to own)
LOOKS LIKE PERFECTION:
If you want it to look flawless under a loupe without paying for a technically flawless stone -- go for VVS1 or VVS2 clarity grades (still flawless to an untrained eye even with a 10x loupe)
EXCELLENT:
If you want to see very little with a loupe and nothing to the naked eye -- go for VS1, VS2 clarity grades (certainly flawless to the naked eye, even to a diamond grader)
VERY NICE:
If you just want it flawless to the naked eye -- go for SI1 or SI2 clarity grades (some SI3 stones will also be flawless to the naked eye); remember that many women really only want this degree of flawlessness
LARGER:
If you do not mind some small inclusions that might be visible to the naked eye and want a larger stone that still sparkles -- go for I1 clarity
LARGEST:
Even if you are interested in the largest size possible regardless of the clarity grade -- we do not recommend I2 or I3 clarity grades for engagement rings. They lack brilliance and might possibly crack or chip more easily due to large structural flaws.
DECIDE ON CARAT WEIGHT
Carat weight is actually the last of the four Cs to consider, surprising as this may seem, although size will be the single most important factor in the price of a stone. Carat weight does not affect the beauty,. It only affects the size and price.First, decide on the quality you want (the first 3 Cs above), then decide on the largest size you can afford to meet those guidelines. We make it easy.
Following are some points to help you decide the budget and size for your diamond:
Most people budget between 1 to 3 months salary for a diamond engagement ring, depending on what will make her happy while keeping your bank account open. Only you can determine the right amount to spend. Set your budget, then continue to the next step.
The most popular sizes are 1/2 carat, 1-carat, and 2-carat diamonds.
Invest the time to learn about diamond prices. You will notice many rules that are unique to the gemstone market. For instance, a 1-carat diamond is much more costly than two 1/2 carat diamonds of the same quality.
You should find out what she prefers for the size. Ask her best friend to find out if possible.
All in all, the best rule is to:
1 -- Buy the quality that will make her happy, considering that this will be one of the most important purchases you ever make, as well as the third most expensive (after your house and car).
2 -- Budget only enough that you both feel proud of your commitment to each other, but not so much that the cost becomes a major stress in your relationship.
WE MAKE IT EASY
We make it as easy as possible to make these difficult decisions quickly and accurately. Now it is time to go beyond these basic 4 Cs to find out the details that separate the poor quality diamonds from the great ones.
In all, there are actually 13 quality factors that influence the beauty and value of a diamond. We also want to cover two additional facts on a certificate that may tell you enough about a diamond to support or nix a purchase.
Caution: If you only compare the basic 4 Cs, you will not have enough information to know whether you are getting a good deal. It is a lot like comparing two cars when you only know 4 things about them. They both have four new tires, a 130-horse-power engine, power brakes, and a CD player. Is that enough to compare accurately? No, because one car might have 150,000 miles on it and does not run at all, while the other is brand new and runs perfectly. You need to be just as thorough comparing two diamonds. When you only know the 4 Cs you will make the wrong decision.
Please continue reading the next lessons so you will know enough to get the best value for your money. Otherwise, it will be easy for an unscrupulous jeweler to steer you away from the best value and make you think they have better prices. This is another reason to stay with Chandlee Jewelers, who took the time to prepare you for this important step.
NEXT: Going Beyond the 4 Cs: Part 1
The next lesson explains the importance of getting a certificate from a respected independent gem laboratory when you buy a diamond. And it explains how every detail on a GIA diamond grading report (usually called a *certificate*) can be crucial. These are the details that most jewelers never tell you about.
4. Going Beyond the 4 Cs: Part 1
The lowest price is rarely the best deal when it comes to diamonds. Two 1-carat diamonds with the same 4 Cs (color, clarity, carat weight and cut) can be worth very different prices -- in fact, they can differ in value by as much as $3000 even if both are selling at the same store and the same markup!
This is due to 9 other important quality factors beyond the 4 Cs that also influence the quality, beauty, and price of a diamond.
If you do not consider every one of these factors when you compare two diamonds, you will always make the wrong decision and end up with a poor deal. This is because the lower price will be a lower quality diamond. The less expensive stone will look like it is priced better, but actually is not.
Only an honest, expert jeweler can make sure a price is good for the exact quality of diamond you want. Ask the jeweler to explain all the details on a diamond certificate so you can see how it works in person.
This lesson and the next one teach you how to go beyond the 4 Cs -- about every detail listed on a GIA , AGS, or EGL certificate. The more questions you ask your jeweler, the more you will be sure you are getting exactly what you want.
HOW TO READ DIAMOND CERTIFICATES
The best resource to help you understand all of these details will be an honest, caring jeweler that really knows their stuff. Do not hesitate to ask your jeweler anything you want to know. There are no stupid questions. No one receives training in diamonds except a gemologist, so how could you know without asking?
It takes more than just a few days or weeks to learn enough about diamonds to protect yourself from an unscrupulous dealer that is bent on cheating you. A bad jeweler will find a way to cheat you no matter what you know.
On the other hand, a good, honest jeweler is going to take good care of you no matter what you know and will never take advantage of you. Instead, they will use their knowledge and experience to be sure you take home a great deal no matter what. That is how they build a business, with satisfied customers telling other customers.
First, about half of all diamonds are over graded by one color grade and one clarity grade -- to make them easier to sell. This may not sound like much, but for a 1-carat diamond it can easily mean $1,000 or more in lost value. A certificate from a respected, independent laboratory will give an accurate, unbiased assessment to help you avoid this problem.
Second, every diamond is unique. This makes a diamond purchase very different from buying a brand-name automobile with a list of options you can look up in a price list. There is no comprehensive diamond price list because the list would have to include millions of possible combinations of weight, color, clarity, girdle thickness, etc. Not even the well-known Rapaport price list is enough, since it only gives the basic starting point with prices for about 10,000 combinations of four best-known factors of shape, size, color, and clarity.
If you try to calculate a diamond price from the Rapaport alone, without considering all 13 factors, you could easily be off by 30% or more and end up overpaying for a poor-possible. An unbiased certificate supplies all the essential details and allows a complete assessment of the basic value of a diamond.
Third, it would be very difficult and time-consuming for a lay person to learn enough to properly assess all the complex factors of diamond quality and pricing. It is not practical to take off from work for six months of in-residence training to become a gemologist for an item you only buy once in a lifetime. Without sufficient knowledge, you will certainly miss some tiny factor that means a great deal to the value. A detailed certificate saves you enormous amounts of time by supplying an expert evaluation.
A diamond grading certificate from one of the better labs is the first, crucial step in getting the quality you want for a fair price.
ALL GEM LABS ARE NOT THE SAME
Definitely not. Most smaller gem labs are extensions of local jewelry stores, created solely for the purpose of raising the image of the inventory owned by a store. Such labs are hardly unbiased and the certificates are rarely accurate. To make it simple, if you want an honest assessment of the true quality of a diamond, avoid any lab that is not one of those listed below:
GIA -- Gemological Institute of America
The most widely respected laboratory in the world today. Certs from this lab are in such demand that diamonds with a GIA cert are often priced 3-5% higher. The price is also due to the fact that the diamond is truly the stated quality, since GIA is known for its reliability and conservative grading. All labs can make a mistake, but GIA labs are truly unbiased and among the most conservative and consistent.
AGS -- American Gemological Society
This is the only large, nationally respected lab that assigns a grade to the overall cut of a diamond. Certs from AGS are often used for Ideal Cuts, and describe all the details of the cut to verify perfect proportions. If you want a perfect cut above anything else, you should insist on an AGS cert.
EGL -- European Gemological Laboratories
Several related labs around the world operate under this network. EGL labs are consistent in our opinion, but not quite as conservative as GIA and AGS.
AGL -- American Gemological Laboratory
This lab is best known for its work in the colored stone industry, working to provide expert assessments of gemstone identification, treatments, and enhancements. The diamond certs have recently gained a reputation as consistent and conservative.
IGI -- International Gemological Institute
This lab is now working hard to improve its reputation and grading standards, but it will take some time to convince us that the bugs are worked out.
Note About Other Labs
Other labs may be highly qualified and offer excellent information. However, other labs do not enjoy the same reputation and popularity as those listed above, and therefore will not command as much value if you ever need to sell the diamond. In the worst scenario -- and a very common one -- other labs will not grade the diamond properly and you are not receiving the actual quality of diamond you want. In most cases, you will end up paying too much for a diamond of lesser quality if it has a certificate from some other lab.
5.Going Beyond the 4 Cs: Part 2
We want to reiterate that the lowest price is rarely the best deal when it comes to diamonds. This is due to the unfortunate fact that two diamonds with the same 4 Cs (color, clarity, carat weight, and cut) can differ by $3000 in value for a 1-carat diamond. They can also vary quite a lot in beauty!
If you do not go beyond the 4 Cs when you compare diamonds, you will go for the lowest priced stone and end up with a lower quality -- and pay too much for it. The difference is due to 9 other important quality factors that also influence the quality, beauty and price of a diamond. This tutorial teaches you how to use every detail on a certificate to help you judge the beauty of a diamond and compare prices more accurately.
Instructions
Follow these steps to learn how diamond dealers use the Rapaport price list to know a good deal on a diamond.
Warning: It is not possible to use the Rapaport price list to assess diamond prices accurately -- until you also consider and adjust for all 13 of the major details on a laboratory certificate.
This is where you ask a good dealer for a little help..
How to use the practice price chart below:
1 - Find the color you want, listed on the left.
2 - Follow from left to right until you are under the clarity you want.
3 - Multiply the number in the box times $100 to find the price per carat.
4 - Multiply the price per carat by the carat weight to get the total price for that diamond.
A diamond dealer then adds or subtracts for additional factors like Ideal Cuts, poor crown angles, excessive table percentages, excessive fluorescence in fine colors, etc. This adds quite a bit of complexity to the pricing process.
Practice Price Chart
NOTE: These prices are not from the actual Rapaport price list. That list is copyrighted and cannot be shown here. However, these prices represent a good idea of the changes for each color and clarity grade, just like you would see in the actual report.
Round Brilliant Shape 1.00-1.49 carats
(all prices in hundreds of dollars per carat)
Round Brilliant Shape 1.00-1.49 carats
(all prices in hundreds of dollars per carat)
|
| IF |
VVS1
|
VVS2
|
VS1
|
VS2
|
SI1
|
SI2
|
SI3
|
I1
|
|
D
|
142
|
94
|
84
|
71
|
64
|
57
|
51
|
41
|
35
|
|
E
|
94
|
84
|
71
|
65
|
61
|
55
|
49
|
40
|
33
|
|
F
|
83
|
71
|
65
|
63
|
59
|
54
|
47
|
38
|
31
|
|
G
|
70
|
65
|
61
|
59
|
55
|
50
|
44
|
37
|
31
|
|
H
|
61
|
59
|
56
|
54
|
51
|
47
|
42
|
35
|
29
|
|
I
|
51
|
49
|
47
|
45
|
43
|
41
|
37
|
33
|
27
|
|
J
|
43
|
42
|
41
|
40
|
39
|
37
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34
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Test Yourself
We recommend using the fictitious sample chart above to practice and test your understanding of diamond pricing and the Rapaport Diamond Report.
TEST QUESTION:
If you buy a round brilliant shape diamond weighing 1.01 carats, of F color and VS2 clarity, what is the approximate starting point for price negotiations among dealers? (before adjustments for other quality factors)
ANSWER:
As per the sample chart above, dealers would start negotiations for a 1.01 carat, F/VS2 at $5,900 per carat, which means about $5,959 for the total stone price. This is called the "Rap Price" for this diamond. Actual selling price would vary greatly, depending mostly on the total quality of the diamond after you adjust for 13 major factors such as fluorescence, Ideal Cut round, crown angles, table percentages, etc. Prices on the same exact diamond will also vary on the volume purchased, credit rating of the buyer, relationship between the buyer and seller, etc. These factors can make a huge impact on the price you or a dealer pays for the stone.
Consumer Prices
Since the first 6-10 major Internet sites began selling diamonds with less overhead and less markup to attract customers, many now sell to consumers at prices that are at or sometimes even below the listed Rapaport price. This is good news for consumers.
But how much of a discount can you expect from a local store? That depends on the shape and its popularity, and how well the dealer bought it -- among other factors. The stores recommended by Chandlee Jewelers have already been tested by their diamond expert so we know their prices are exceptional.
ESSENTIAL QUALITY FACTORS
In this lesson we will cover the first 6 of the crucial quality factors you need to compare diamond quality and prices fairly (and be sure you are getting a great deal!).
First we will cover some advanced information about the 4 Cs:
-- Color Grades: Which are Most Popular and Why
-- Clarity Grades: Which are Most Popular and Why
-- How Shape (Cut) Affects Prices
-- How Carat Weight Affects Prices
Then we will cover 2 other complicated quality factors:
-- How Measurements Affect Beauty
-- The Make : Proportions
COLOR GRADES: WHICH ARE MOST POPULAR AND WHY
If you choose a G or H color, you will be among a large number of savvy diamond buyers.
Why do so many people choose that color? Color G looks white without costing as much as a truly colorless D grade. Color G is very good, even if you are setting the stone in a white gold or platinum setting. F color would look the same to any unaided eye under normal lighting, but for a 1-carat diamond would cost you about $1000 more even if everything else remained the same!
If you follow the choices you made in the lesson on the 4 Cs, you would have already arrived at this color if it is right for you. If you want to follow the decisions of many other people, you might want to consider a G color (or F or H).
CLARITY GRADES: WHICH ARE MOST POPULAR AND WHY
Many people start their search for a diamond with a VS2 or SI1 clarity grade. These are the grades that look flawless to the naked eye, but cost much less than stones that are truly graded flawless under a microscope by a trained gemologist.
If you follow the choices you made in the lesson on the 4 Cs, you would arrive at this clarity if it is right for you. If you want to follow the decisions of many other people, you might want to consider a VS2 or SI1 clarity grade.
HOW SHAPE AFFECTS PRICES
The word "cut" actually refers to two different traits of a diamond:
1) the shape -- round, princess, radiant, emerald, pear, heart, oval, marquise
2) the make -- how well the shape is cut, including proportions, finish, and symmetry.
First we will discuss how the basic shape of a diamond significantly affects the price.
The wholesale price list used by almost every diamond dealer and major retailer around the world (published monthly as the Rapaport Diamond Report) gives prices for four shapes: rounds, emeralds, pears and marquise shapes. The charts for pear shapes are used for all other shapes.
HOW CARAT WEIGHT AFFECTS PRICE
The weight of a diamond is given in carats. One carat is equal to 1/142 of an ounce, or about the weight of one carob bean (used in ancient times).
Many people think of carat weight as the size of a diamond. However, two diamonds of the same weight can look very different in size. If a diamond is cut deep and narrow (heavy cut), it will look much smaller than another diamond of the same weight that is cut shallow and wide (spread cut). So even with 2 stones of the same carat weight, you will need to look at stones side by side if you want to see which one looks larger.
There are two major considerations when looking at the weight of a diamond:
1) Price per carat goes up as the weight goes up, and prices leap at certain critical weights.
Each of the following weights (starting with 0.46 carats) have entirely separate price charts, and increase dramatically at each break. Prices increase because larger stones are much more rare than smaller ones. Therefore, two smaller diamonds will not cost as much as one large diamond that weighs the same as both together. For instance, two 0.50-carat diamonds as listed below would cost $3,600 total, while one stone weighing 1.00 carat would cost $6,600.
Prices given below are for a Round Brilliant shape, good make, G color, VS2 clarity, from the Rapaport Diamond Report for March 2000 as an example. We give just one quality as an example to make this point clearly. Other qualities will vary dramatically in price. Also, these prices are not meant to represent actual selling prices, since these are outdated numbers and do not apply anymore.
Example unadjusted prices for Round / G / VS2:
(not yet adjusted for all 13 quality factors, discounts, or current market premiums)
0.46 - 0.49 --> Price: $ 2,800 per carat = Total for .46 ct. $ 1,288
0.50 - 0.69 --> Price: $ 3,600 per carat = Total for .50 ct. $ 1,800
0.70 - 0.89 --> Price: $ 4,700 per carat = Total for .70 ct. $ 3,290
0.90 - 0.99 --> Price: $ 5,700 per carat = Total for .90 ct. $ 5,130
1.00 - 1.49 --> Price: $ 6,600 per carat = Total for 1.00 ct. $ 6,600
1.50 - 1.99 --> Price: $ 8,400 per carat = Total for 1.50 ct. $ 12,600
2.00 - 2.99 --> Price: $ 10,200 per carat = Total for 2.00 ct. $ 20,400
3.00 - 3.99 --> Price: $ 11,600 per carat = Total for 3.00 ct. $ 34,800
4.00 - 4.99 --> Price: $ 13,000 per carat = Total for 4.00 ct. $ 52,000
5.00 - 5.99 --> Price: $ 16,700 per carat = Total for 5.00 ct. $ 83,500
Above 6 carats, diamonds are considered specials, and are individually priced. There is not enough data to give standard pricing predictions, so you will need to discuss these with several dealers or just find one you trust to offer the best prices on rare stones.
(TIP: If you want to save money, consider a diamond that is just under the weight/price break. It will look just as large, but cost less. Example: 0.95 carats instead of 1.00 carat even)
2) Popular weights are more expensive and harder to find in specific qualities.
Each week, prices and availability fluctuate for certain sizes and shapes, with the forces of demand and supply. At the time of this writing and for a couple of years now, diamonds have been harder to find in the 1.25 carat range as well as 0.67 and 2.50, to mention only a few.
This scarcity of certain sizes influences prices for those stones because dealers know they can sell the stones without discounting. (Margins are so low for most categories in this highly competitive industry, who can blame them?) In other words, a dealer who has stones of these hard-to-find sizes can just sit on them until someone offers to pay the price, and he/she knows they will not have to wait long.
We recommend choosing sizes that are in good supply, to avoid unnecessary premiums. If you must go down a little in size and budget to get a better value, apply the rest to your honeymoon or wedding arrangements and enjoy the savings.
MEASUREMENTS
The measurements of a diamond are primarily used for identification purposes, since no two diamonds are exactly alike in weight, quality and measurements together.
However, there is one more important way to use the measurements of a diamond -- to help you judge the potential beauty and brilliance.
For round diamonds, the measurements help you determine total symmetry. Perfectly round means more brilliance in a diamond. Though no diamond is quite PERFECTLY round, you want to find one that is very close.
FOR ROUND DIAMONDS
All rounds are also given two measurements for diameter, since they are never quite perfectly round. Perfection is impossible since diamonds are cut by imperfect humans.
The first two figures in the measurements of a round are the maximum and minimum diameters. These two diameters should not vary by too much.
Example: A round diamond with measurements of 6.50 x 6.56 x 4.72. This means that the diameter varies by only 0.06 mm, which is quite acceptable for a 1-carat diamond as you will see in the following list.
Below are our opinions of acceptable variances for rounds in the popular sizes.
Carat Weight / Acceptable Variation
0.50 carat / 0.05 mm
0.60 carat / 0.06 mm
0.70 carat / 0.07 mm
0.80 carat / 0.08 mm
0.90 carat / 0.09 mm
1.00 carat / 0.10 mm
2.00 carat / 0.12 mm
3.00 carat / 0.14 mm
4.00 carat / 0.16 mm
5.00 carat / 0.17 mm
FOR FANCY SHAPES
For fancy shapes like the princess, marquise or pear shapes, the overall length-to-width ratio is important because certain proportions are more appealing to the eye.
How to figure the length-to-width ratio of a fancy-shaped diamond (fancy shape means anything except round):
Take the length of the diamond and divide by the width. Example: A marquise that measures 8 mm x 5 mm has a 1.6 : 1 ratio.
Given below are the length-to-width ratios that seem to appeal to most people.
Pear shapes are most popular at a ratio between: 1.50:1 and 1.75:1
Marquise shapes are most popular at a ratio between: 1.80:1 and a 2.20:1
Emerald cuts are most popular at a ratio between: 1.30:1 and a 1.50:1
Princess cuts are most popular at a ratio between: 1.15:1 and a 1.00:1
Radiant cuts are most popular at a ratio between: 1.50:1 and a 1.75:1
Heart shapes are most popular at a ratio between: 1.25:1 and a 1.50:1
Oval shapes are most popular at a ratio between: 1.30:1 and a 1.50:1
TIP: This information should only be used as a starting point in the hunt for your personal dream diamond. It would be a great mistake to stick to these ratios precisely, especially against your own personal preferences. It is our advice to start with these ratios for a reference, then look at other options to determine what you like best. Always buy what you like best. Do not let anyone (even us) convince you to think differently.
THE MAKE: PROPORTIONS
The proportions can make an enormous difference in the appearance of a diamond. On a GIA certificate, "Proportion" is a general heading that includes the Depth and Table percentages and various other details as described below.
Some other labs include more information about the cut. You will notice that the AGS report includes every important detail about the cut -- the most important factor in the beauty of a diamond. This is the only weakness of the GIA report and the unique strength of the AGS reports.
Proportions, polish, and symmetry are actually more important than color, clarity or weight in determining beauty. Keep in mind that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and everyone does NOT have exactly the same preferences in diamond proportions. Some people prefer a table that is a little wider (within reason) to make the diamond appear larger and brighter, while others like a smaller table because it may add a little more fire.
6.Going Beyond the 4 Cs: Part 3
Today we will continue with the remaining 7 of the 13 quality factors that influence the quality, beauty, and price of a diamond, including:
-- The Make : Depth %
-- The Make : Table %
-- The Make : Culet
-- The Make : Finish
-- The Make : Polish
-- The Make : Symmetry
-- Fluorescence
Then we will cover 2 other important details on the certificate:
-- Date of the Report
-- Plot of Inclusions
If you want help learning about these details from someone honest and knowledgeable, register your diamond needs at Chandlee Jewelers. Call and make an appointment to visit. Even if you do not end up buying from us, at least help you understand these details and show you diamonds side-by-side to make it easier. Do not hesitate to call and see us as soon as possible so you can gather the information you need to do this right.
THE MAKE: DEPTH %
Depth percentage is the ratio of the total depth of the diamond (from table to culet) as compared with the total diameter (which is used as the 100% figure for all diamond dimensions). For instance, if the total diameter of a round diamond is 6.00 mm and the total depth is 4.00 mm, then the depth percentage is 66.7%.
The ranges that are commonly considered best for each shape vary slightly, but we will just give the basic dimensions for rounds here. Dimensions for other shapes are beyond the scope of this brief report. However, for the most part, fancies also follow the same guidelines given below. The exceptions to this rule are princess, radiant and emerald cuts, for which you should allow up to 70 - 75% for acceptable ranges (in our opinion).
Ideal = 58 - 60%
Excellent = 60.1 - 62%
Good = 62 - 64%
Fair = 64 - 66%
Poor = over 66% or under 57%
THE MAKE: TABLE %
Table percentage is the ratio of the table width as compared to the total width of the diamond. For rounds, the largest diameter is used. For fancies, the smallest diameter (width as opposed to length) is used. For example, if the table measures 5.7 mm, and the total diameter of the diamond measures 10.0 mm, then the table percentage is 57%.
It is important to note that the trend toward smaller table percentages is a very recent phenomenon. Until the last 5 years or so, most people preferred a slightly larger table because it added width to the stone without sacrificing brilliance and only a miniscule bit of fire. Today, the trend toward "perfection" is creating a great demand for diamonds that are cut to so-called "ideal" proportions, increasing the price for Ideal Cut diamonds.
Actually, perfect proportions are not possible because the proportions that would be perfect vary for each individual diamond -- depending on the nature of the rough material and where the diamond is mined. Each diamond has its own unique properties. Stones from four different mines can be cut to the exact same proportions but look very different.
The value of Ideal Cuts should be considered carefully. It is true that good proportions make an enormous difference in the fire and brilliance of a diamond, but it is not true that all diamonds will look the same when cut to the same proportions.
We recommend choosing a diamond that appeals to you, and do not let anyone tell you what looks better. They can only express their personal taste, which might not be the same as yours. Always buy what you like.
THE MAKE: CULET
The culet on a diamond is the tiny flat facet that is sometimes (but not always) created by polishing off the tip at the bottom where all the facets of the pavilion otherwise come to a point. This protects the fragile tip of the diamond from chipping, which would require an expensive recut.
Unfortunately, diamonds without culets have become very commonplace and some jewelers will even try to tell you that a culet is not good (to sell what they might have in stock that day). We generally recommend stones with a small or very small culet to minimize the risk of chipping the point. But this is not crucial, so do not make it a big issue. If everything else about a diamond is fine, this should not be enough to make a difference. Go for it either way.
THE MAKE: FINISH
The finish of a diamond includes two separate factors: the polish and symmetry, as listed below. The finish is a very good indicator of the care taken by the craftsman to make the diamond as beautiful as possible. We do not recommend engagement diamonds with Poor or Fair gradings for polish or finish.
THE MAKE: POLISH
Diamonds are capable of taking a polish better than any other material on earth. This means that a diamond can be polished to have the most perfect, reflective surfaces. This is one reason why diamonds are known for their incredible brilliance.
Grades for polish range from Ideal (which is very rare) to Excellent, Very Good, Good, Poor, and Fair. We consider Good polish to be the minimum for engagement rings.
THE MAKE: SYMMETRY
We consider symmetry very important in the making of a beautiful diamond. Without symmetry, the facets of the upper part of the diamond (called the crown) and the lower part (called the pavilion) may not match up. Poor facet alignment will allow light to leak out before it reflects back to your eye -- resulting in less brilliance and fire. In other shapes, such as a heart or oval, poor symmetry may cause one side to be broader than the other and give it a lopsided appearance, or it could result in uneven facet arrangements that allow light to leak and decrease the overall brilliance of the stone.
Grades for symmetry range from Ideal (which is very rare) to Excellent, Very Good, Good, Poor, and Fair. We consider Good symmetry to be the minimum for an engagement ring.
FLUORESCENCE
Diamonds have many unique properties, which sometimes includes a natural blue fluorescence under ultraviolet light.
How does fluorescence effect the beauty or value of a diamond? The answer to that question depends on the color grade you are buying.
For a diamond with very high color (such as a D to F grade), extremely strong blue fluorescence is thought to interfere with the flow of light and make the diamond appear a little oily or murky. But this really only applies to stones with D, E, or F color grades, and only if the fluorescence is extreme, which is VERY rare and not commonly seen in the marketplace at all. The effect of fluorescence is quite overrated in our opinion, so you can often ignore it except for extreme cases.
In grades just below the ones mentioned above (G, H and I color grades), moderate to even strong blue fluorescence can actually improve the color appearance to the naked eye in sunlight, so it might actually be a good choice. It helps counteract some of the yellow and make it appear more white or colorless.
DATE OF THE CERTIFICATE
The date on the certificate is more important than you might think. If you are considering buying a diamond with a certificate dated over a year ago, a lot could have happened to that diamond since it was examined by the laboratory. For instance, many diamonds are sold, set in a ring, worn by someone, and then sold to a dealer a year later. While it was worn, the diamond could have been nicked or chipped, decreasing the clarity grade and diminishing the value of the stone somewhat.
Therefore, we like to suggest a rule. If a certificate is over a year old, you should at least ask the dealer to explain where it has been during that time. We admit it is possible the diamond could have been in the vault for that long, but usually diamonds sell faster than that at a high-volume dealer that specializes in selling engagement rings.
If the certificate is more than 2 years old, you might just want to avoid it, or suggest that the store send it out to have it graded by a lab again to make sure the information is still valid.
PLOT OF INCLUSIONS
The main thing most consumers want to know about clarity is very simple: "Does the diamond have any flaws I can see with my naked eye?"
Usually the answer to this question can be determined by looking at the map, or plot, of the diamond.
A diamond with a clarity grade of VS2, VS1 or better, will not have any inclusions visible with the naked eye. However, it becomes a little harder to make that statement about an SI1 clarity grade, because placement of the inclusion will make a difference.
If the main inclusion in an SI1 is directly under the table facet (the large facet at the top center), you might be able to see it with the naked eye if you have very good vision and know where to look.
If the clarity grade is VS2 or less, we recommend examining the plot to see the placement of the major inclusions.
Additional gemological terms such as feather, pinpoint, cloud, or natural are too complicated for this brief tutorial. However, if you see any of these comments in the plot, do not be concerned. They are just technical terms for the types of inclusions in the diamond. The overall clarity grade is the most important factor, since that tells you the size of the inclusions (and therefore the visibility of the inclusions).
7.Making Your Final Selection
Time to Buy Your Diamond: How to Put It All Together
By now, you have decided every detail about the diamond you want. If not, call your jeweler and get your questions answered right now.
(Hint: Now is when you need to head on over to Chandlee Jewelers, You can also pick a diamond from our Diamond Search Page, call us and we will have it in the store for you to see by the next day.)
Come back to this lesson when you have all the details decided.
Now we will explain how to put it all together -- how to choose your diamond and know the best deal when you see it.
8.Presentation: Loose or in a Setting?
So now it is time to present the ring!
There are some very important things to decide and accomplish before you pop the question with a diamond in hand. You need to decide whether you want to select a ring and hope she likes it, or let your sweetheart pick out the ring after you give her the diamond.
We always recommend letting the woman design her own wedding ring. There are a couple of different ways to do that and still make the proposal a complete surprise.
1) make your proposal using a loose diamond in a special presentation box
2) set the diamond in a basic tiffany style solitaire ring, make the proposal, and exchange the simple ring for the one she wants.
Buy the Diamond By Yourself
We do not recommend going to a jewelry store with your sweetheart to pick out a diamond ring. Here is why.
First of all, going together eliminates the surprise element and a lot of the romance. If you take her with you to select the diamond, what would you give her when you ask her? A promise note? Go for as much romance as you can when you make your proposal, to make it a day she will always remember and cherish.
Secondly, it takes time to build a good relationship with good habits and techniques for resolving different opinions. When couples shop together for something this important at such an early stage in a relationship, we have seen too many arguments over the amount of money you want to spend.
Inevitably a woman sees a ring she wants with a diamond that is too expensive for the man to afford. This usually would not be a problem because most good jewelers (especially Chandlee Jewelers) can change the center diamond to something that is more affordable for you but still looks wonderful in that ring setting. However, it is often hard for your sweetheart (or anyone) to imagine that ring with a different diamond once she has seen it set with a certain diamond. So she gets attached to that ring exactly the way she sees it, no matter what it might cost. All of a sudden, a little thing like money gets in the way of something that should be very romantic.
If you buy the diamond and present it when you ask her to marry you, you will have complete control over the part of the ring that is the most important and most expensive for you. When you involve the woman later in the design of the ring, you involve her in the part that determines the beauty of the ring and often means the most to her. This way, you get the best of both worlds: you control the price and she controls the look.
Below are the pros and cons of presenting a diamond loose or in a simple tiffany setting:
Presenting a Tiffany Solitaire Ring
Presenting the diamond in a simple, tiffany-style solitaire ring is the best way to "pop the question" if you want to:
-- Avoid buying a setting she might not like
-- Give her a ring when you propose, to make it romantic and traditional
-- Make a very small investment in the ring so you can exchange it easily
-- Let her choose the setting, which is very important for most women
-- Keep control of the price range of the most expensive part of the ring
-- Keep the surprise when you pop the question
When you buy a loose diamond and have it set in a simple setting for starters, you get the diamond you want at the price you want, she gets the setting she wants, you make it a surprise, and you avoid making a big mistake on such an important day!
Presenting a Loose Diamond
A loose diamond in a special presentation box is a good way to "pop the question" if you want to:
-- Show her the whole diamond before the setting covers the edges
-- Save the cost of a simple setting to put toward a custom ring
-- Let her choose the setting, which is the most important factor for most women
-- Keep control of the price range of the most expensive part of the ring
-- Surprise her and pop the question in a dramatic way
When you buy a loose diamond, you get the diamond you want at the price you want, she gets the setting she wants, you make it a surprise, and you avoid extra expenses!
Making the Presentation
Puzzled about how to present a diamond without a ring box?
Make sure your diamond dealer supplies a special presentation box for loose diamonds, such as a File-a-Gem presentation box with a special clear plastic sleeve to hold the stone securely and make it beautiful at the same time.
Take Advantage of Chandlee Jewelers Jewelers
Your personal jeweler will give you the education you will need in your diamond hunt.
Whether you buy here or not, you should start by getting to know the 4 Cs and beyond, using microscopes, loupes, color-corrected lighting, and look at diamonds side-by-side to really learn quickly.
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